Friday, April 26, 2013

Meridian to the Delta Blues


The GPS got a little confused getting out of Meridian and I had failed to start the manual gps, but it gave us a good tour of the town. We finally found Old US 80 out of town. The road needed a little repair and about 20 miles down the road we ran into construction. There were several long delays and many of us got out and visited among ourselves.
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eddie said two people had already tried to kill him today

a masked bandit on the highway

foley lives with his momma and he was going into town to walmart to pick up a few things

is that one of them italian jobs?

lewis is friendly but he does not smile

we sat here for 20 minutes as the paving machine laid asphalt through a narrow road area






We rolled into Jackson, the state capital, about lunch time and figured this would be a great place to have lunch and leer at all the good looking female employees roaming the side walk. So I parked in a construction zone and started walking the town. It was like a ghost town. There was no one there. The Elite restaurant had  been here for over 50 years and the waitresses  have been here for 19 to 32 years and said things were a little “slow”. I ended up on a bench with 6 guys from AT&T. They pointed to all the different buildings and told me what used to be there and now there is nothing. It was a sad sight.

 not a soul in the coffee shop

 not a soul on the road or sidewalk

 the at&t guys

this rusted license plate pretty well sums up mississippi's history

We got on 49 and headed north towards Yazoo City (I have always loved that name). I made a turn into Bentonia to make a pilgrimage to the Blue Front Cafe and home of Jimmy “Duck” Holmes one of the best blues guitar players in the world. It was locked up tight, but I took a few pictures and went to the cotton gin next door where Jack builds drag racers for his boss. He, Will Young and I visited and talked racing and then Jimmy came driving up. I spent the next hour sitting on the front porch talking blues, life and travel with one of the greatest and a living legend. We talked about how old juke joints like his in rural America are just about gone. He said his business came mainly from people from Jackson booking events on weekends for some reason or other. Interestingly he said that very few blacks come to the blues concerts nowadays and they are mostly older people. He figured the young kids don’t come cause you can’t do blues with your britches below their butt. I would love to have had a few beers, but Big Red will not let me drink and drive.

 one of the winning drag racers in the cotton gin





I was on a natural high after visiting Jimmy.  I told him I would work on getting him back to St. Pete again for another concert.  The rest of the day was spent just wandering the back roads until I found myself in Greenville after 5 pm. It was not where I wanted to spend the night, but I could not get anyone to answer the phones in Indianola or Clarksdale so I checked into a Greenville hotel. They served chicken wings and beer for the manager's happy hour.  I was happy.